Almost exactly a year ago, as we were preparing to sail south from San Diego, CA to Mexico for the winter, we hit a wall. Not literally, but figuratively.
We try to arrive prepared when we cruise which means researching our destination, logistics, any navigational hazards that may warrant special considerations, and of course costs since we typically cruise with a limited amount of cash. Finding a good guide on what to expect upon arrival in Ensenada, Mexico and how to get ourselves and Sea Fox checked in to Mexico was a surprisingly challenging task to complete. We simply could not find any comprehensive information about what to expect!
The advice we received from local sailors who frequently sail between California and Mexico was to book a slip at the Hotel Coral and Marina, use their port agent to clear in, and we’d have no worries. And it was completely accurate.
The staff at Hotel Coral and Marina are wonderful, the location is excellent, and the facilities are clean. Of course, things like prices and availability are subject to change but before we departed San Diego we couldn't find more than anecdotal information which proved adequate. As far as the rest of the details? We compiled it all here for you.
There are no affiliate links here and we do not earn commissions from The Coral. We encourage you to check them out for yourself.
Getting in and out of the marina
The entrance can be a little tricky to get into. If the wind and swell are up, waves will be breaking right against the breakwater and across the entrance to the marina, which requires making a hard left if you’re coming down from the north. Plan your arrival and departure carefully and try not to get caught entering or exiting when conditions are rough as it is very unforgiving.
As soon as you can, call the marina on VHF 71. They’re open 8am-7pm and will send a couple of employees down to help with your lines. Initially we didn’t think this was necessary, however, this marina only has double slips and many folks who are the only boat when they arrive tie lines all the way across both slips. It’s not ideal to discover this when you are trying to turn into any slip, but particularly here as the fairways are quite narrow. Also, if you’ve been assigned the upwind slip and there is any breeze at all it can’t hurt to have some extra hands on the dock to keep you from blowing down on your new neighbor.
When there is swell running this is a VERY rolly marina. Your fenders and dock lines will get a workout here. Make sure you have plenty and that they are in good shape!
Tidal fluctuations affect the gangways significantly here. Keep an eye on the tides and plan your activities accordingly so you aren't trying to haul a fully loaded dock cart up a vertical walkway at low tide.
2. Clearing into Mexico
We expected long lines and red tape clearing into Mexico but encountered zero of it whatsoever, which we attribute to the magic of the Coral. We’d been advised by multiple seasoned cruisers not to try to save a few bucks by attempting to check in unassisted, and heard plenty of stories from folks who went that route and spent days trying to get their paperwork sorted. All while continuing to pay daily slip rates, of course. The Coral has this down to a science, and when you are exhausted and overwhelmed you appreciate it even more.
First, get in touch with Coral before you plan to arrive in Ensenada. You can submit most of your identification and boat documentation and make a slip reservation via email which will save you time and give them a chance to get things lined up for checking you in smoothly. In some cases they can even give you your slip number so you know right where to go when you arrive. Amazing.
Once in your slip, bring all the requested documents up to the office. There is a health office located adjacent to the marina office where you'll complete a form with a medical officer and get your official health clearance for Mexico. A marina employee will then take you over to the government office building to get your temporary import permit (TIP), check in with the port captain, and secure your tourist visa which is currently good for 180 days or 6 months. THIS is where the $175 (Coral check in service shines).
Our driver handled literally everything while we melted into our chairs, exhausted and confused. He explained (in English) what office we were meeting with, instructed us on which documents to produce, filled out required forms that were only available in Spanish, and communicated on our behalf with the person behind the desk, all of whom only spoke Spanish. We trusted him completely. He told us where to sign and what we were signing, when to pull out the credit card, how much the charge would be, and what it was for. It took us less than two hours to knock everything out, no doubt due to his familiarity with the process and people. I cannot stress enough how simple and worth it this service is!! Think about it, if you can't navigate the process in one day on your own, you've got to pay an extra night at the marina anyway which will run you at least $125, so why not make it easy and pay for the service up front?
You'll need to repeat this process when you depart Ensenada and can do so up to 48 hours before your departure. Keep in mind that the government offices have limited hours (9am-1:30pm-ish) and close for holidays so communicate with the marina office and they will schedule your trip over to the office for you. Don't forget to purchase your conservation passport (aka national park pass) if you intend to visit any of Mexico's national parks, and your fishing licenses. Both of these can be secured online rather than going to a government office.
Finally, hoist that Mexican flag and enjoy!
3. Housekeeping?
Trash cans are located every few slips and emptied daily. Showers are clean, hot, and open 24/7. We had a surprisingly awesome laundry experience here. There can be a bottleneck when folks stockpile their linens and take up all 3 of the washers or 5 of the dryers but we found that first thing in the morning works great. Several boats, including us, hang dry their laundry when it's breezy, saving the $2.50 for the dryer. The washers are either $2.50 or $3.50 depending on which you choose. We chose not to fill our tanks with marina water but our neighbors report it is clean and potable. Power is available at pylons located every other slip. You may need to back into your slip to be able to plug in so be sure to check your slip assignment with the marina before you head in.
All dock fingers (A-F) have programed key cards which only access the dock your slip is on. There is a security fee of $21 per key which is refunded when you depart. The fuel dock is open 8am-7pm and has pretty clean diesel fuel. We still used our Baja filter which caught a small amount of particulate matter. It's pretty easy to drive up to the fuel dock, although those of us topping off our tanks chose to carry jerry cans over, have them filled, and dock cart them back to the boat.
The marina Wi-Fi was being upgraded when we arrived, and when it came back online a few days into our stay I was totally blown away. It is lightning fast! We were able to do Zoom meetings, download anything we needed, and only had issues during one of the torrential multi-day downpours when it stopped working and had to be dried out. There’s also Wi-Fi at the bar and grill (where you’ll get a coupon for a free welcome cocktail when you check in to the marina!), lounge, and hotel, all of which were very fast and consistent during our month-long stay.
4. Amenities
Maybe we've just been living the simple life, but we were completely blown away by the amenities at the Coral. Marina guests have access to the hotel pools and jacuzzis--you read that right--there are outdoor and indoor options for both depending on what you're in the mood for! Towel service is included. There is a modern gym next to the pool but it is no longer included with your moorage fee; we were quoted $54/month which includes access to a locker room with showers. The marina has a small lounge area next to the bathrooms with a pool table, plenty of seating, drinking water, a microwave, magazines, book exchange and library, and a great view of the bay.
A reasonably priced grocery store, Soriana, is located across a busy but frequently crossed street. Be patient and time your crossing just right! The Soriana has fresh produce, a meat counter, bakery, store that sells SIM cards, and some imported foods that were relatively reasonably priced. Eat like a local and you’ll come in under budget every time. $1 for a dozen fresh tortillas? Heck yes. You’ll also find Auto Zone, Subway, and a laundry service there in that shopping center.
Back at the marina you’ll find a small marine store with a selection of tinned wire, hoses, dock lines, fenders, electrical terminations, and pumps, albeit at substantially higher prices than back in the US. Another option is to rent a car or take the bus back north across the border to West Marine in Chula Vista if you absolutely can’t live without something.
The hotel also has a lovely restaurant that serves a wide variety of Mexican and American cuisine, however, I recommend saving your pesos for the weekend brunch buffet. For $22 you get full access to the buffet which includes a sumptuous fruit bar, made to order omelette and eggs, hot foods like chilaquiles and paella, plus American staples such as pancakes and bacon. But wait. There’s more. Mexican pastries, churros, desserts, coffee, and one mimosa. Outside you’ll find a lamb being roasted over fire that will be taco’d up for you upon request. That is, after you visit the tortilla lady who will grill you up fresh corn or flour tortillas or build you a quesadilla if you like. Lastly, if seafood is your jam, fish tacos and freshly prepared ceviche and chocolate clams await you. It’s a fantastic spread and well worth the price.
5. Above and beyond
The Coral is incredible. Seriously. The shuttle that takes you to check in and out with the port captain's office? It will drop you off at Costco, take you to exchange money, whatever you need. We followed suit with other cruisers by using the free shuttle to get TO Costco but paid $8 for an Uber back with all of our stuff. Need your propane tanks filled or topped off? No problem. Let the office know, drop your tanks off there, and they'll run them down the road to be filled and bring the receipt back for you to pay in the office. Want a specific slip number when you arrive? Just ask nicely and odds are if they can make it happen for you, they totally will.
From the welcome drink coupons at the shoreside bar to the stellar port agent service, we agree with our cruiser friends completely that shelling out the extra pesos for moorage and a port agent is well-worth the hassle and haggling we heard other cruisers speak of. Especially if this is your first time out cruising. There is a lot to learn and adjust to, on top of suddenly being in a different country and having to consider the weather more than you likely ever have before.
Still Have Questions?
Let us know what questions you have about checking into Mexico in Ensenada and we’ll do our best to help you out!
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