June 17, 2024: Leg 2 Expedition is Underway!

Day 1 of Leg 2 sail training complete! Crew of Geoff and Bill joined us this afternoon and it’s clear we a going to have a fantastic expedition! After a brief orientation, Bill expertly navigated us out of our slip in Port Hardy and into the mild 10 knot headwinds.

Once underway we completed the day’s orientation and dug right into learning sailing systems and terminology. Bill sighted our first whale of the day, a humpback, off port which stayed with us for quite a distance. Conditions were calm and became even more calm as we motorsailed towards Bull Harbour where we intended to spend the night.

In addition to getting acquainted with Sea Fox, we discussed logbooks and record keeping onboard, plus nautical terminology. “Hockle” was definitely a fun new term to learn, and Geoff taught us all the maritime origins of some other fun words!

Bull Harbour is a lovely protected cove to spend the night before rounding Cape Scott. A lone sea otter greeted us as we motored in to a surprise: an empty spot on the public dock next to our friends Charlie and Sarah from Anacortes. The cruising community is everywhere up here!

After dinner Geoff and Bill got an introduction to preparing the deck for offshore sailing. Next, armed with fresh insight on how to get weather information at sea, they got straight to work plotting our course for the Cape rounding. Winds, waves, tides, and currents all look conducive to a smooth ride around the corner. It’ll be an early morning after a great first day!

Julie

June 18, 2024: Around Cape Scott

This should have been sent last night, but I lost my way on how to push this up to the satellite. So here it is.

Interesting navigation day, early departure (6 am) from Bull Harbour to make Cape Scott in order to make high slack. Instead of going over the infamous Nahwitti Bar we went south around Tatnall Reefs and on to Cape Scott. Calm seas with lots of sea otters and overcast skies.

Just before noon we made Cape Scott as planned and started our way south down the west coast of Vancouver Island. Given the weather forecast, we decided to put into Sea Otter Cove for the night and tied up to one of the four very large storm buoys for folks who need a safe harbour in poor weather.

We have had this anchorage to ourselves today, a beautiful cove in true BC west coast style. Tomorrow we have a long 62 nautical mile sail down to the Bunsby Islands. We need good weather to get around Brooks Peninsula and tomorrow is that with moderate northwest winds. Sailors have spent days holed up waiting for a good weather window to make this passage, the wind goddess is smiling on us this week.

Sea Fox is an amazing off-shore boat, Bill and I are getting spoiled by not only the equipment on board Sea Fox but by our skippers Julie and Gio. They are so organized in incorporating us into the Sea Fox’s daily routines by a very much hands on format. From planning our next days navigation waypoints each evening to downloading the satellite GRIB weather forecasts. Their marine knowledge is very impressive and our days are filled with discussions about everything sailing. They are two of the most delightful people I have sailed with in my 46 years of sailing.

Tomorrow should be a great downwind run with sail perfect northwest winds.

Geoff

June 19, 2024: Passing the Brooks Peninsula

Today was quite the day! We woke up early in anticipation of a long sail south around the Brooks Peninsula ahead of a low pressure system that is forecasted to make it tough to pass. Brooks Peninsula already has a reputation for tempestuous conditions, even more so during a strong blow. With twice daily weather data checks we stay pretty on top of any new developments, and today looked like a good one to put to sea and make it around.

Sea otters, harbor seals, and loons saw us off from Sea Otter Cove. With Geoff at the helm and Bill on the bow watching for kelp and rocks we smoothly exited this northern storm refuge and began our trek south. Motorsailing until lunch allowed plenty of time for Gio to lead an introduction to downwind cruising sailing, including practicing deploying and dropping the carbon fiber pole.

Shortly after lunch the wind filled in as forecasted and we sailed downwind about eight miles offshore, right past the gorgeous peninsula. A handful of humpback whales and even an albatross joined us. We made such good time that we had to turn back up into the wind and waves on a beam/close reach in 20-30 knots for a few miles. Bill and Geoff took turns practicing steering into the gusts and waves; both did great!

After a long sailing day we dropped anchor in the beautiful Bunsby Islands and enjoyed our status as the only boat in the anchorage. Geoff is our stern-tying pro, rowing ashore to select the very best tree to keep us in position overnight. Bill’s keen eye noticed abundant baitfish all around-a gorgeous place to call home for the night.

Julie

June 20, 2024: Fish On!

Waking up in the Bunsby Islands was pretty spectacular. No other boats, crystal clear water, and with a slight heel. Wait, a slight heel? Yep. Between last night and this morning we discovered a total of four new, uncharted rocks in the Bunsbys, thanks to our sonar recorder and overnight swing pattern. It was a beautiful morning all the same as we waited for the flooding tide to refloat us off one of our new rocks. We headed out of the anchorage cautiously, past enormous kelp beds and sea otters bringing up their breakfasts.

Since we planned a short run today, the crew took a vote and decided to put Bill’s fishing guide expertise to good use and try to pull up some fresh fish for dinner. Bill centered us on an underwater flat topped pinnacle of about 150’ depth. He patiently gave exquisite lessons on how to jig for ground fish . Gio was up first, followed by Julie and Geoff. Four drops were made with a glow in the dark jig and four massive lingcod were brought up. That’s got to be a first! We kept one of the lingcod which Gio made short work of filleting and released the rest. Bill estimated it must have been about a 20 lb. fish that found its way into the fridge.

Conditions were too light to sail as we turned the bow south leaving the Bunsbys, but as the sun rose higher so did the wind. After a short motor sail, once we go out of the lee of Brooks Peninsula, the wind filled in an we were able to get some sails flying and shut off the engine. Bill and Geoff put their downwind sailing skills to the test, opting to setup the whisker pole, preventer, and downwind sail configuration completely independently. Quite the feat so early in the expedition, and they did fantastic!

Following our lovely downwind sail we snaked our way though a narrow kelp filled channel to a fantastic anchorage called Nutchatlitz. While navigating the narrow channels into the anchorage we were joined by a pod of six killer whales that surfaced just off our starboard stern, so close that we could hear their exhalations and see their eyes looking up at us curiously. What a treat!

Once we set the anchor and secured the snubber lines, Julie whipped up a tasty red couscous with an artichoke bruschetta and we all had a one pound portion of fresh barbecued lingcod! Tomorrow our expedition heads south to Friendly Cove on the South end of Nootka Island.

Gio

June 21, 2024: Salmon for Supper

Nuchatlitz is a very pretty anchorage. We woke in the morning to the sight of two sea otters swimming past the boat, and after an excellent breakfast Geoff helmed the boat through the narrow kelp-filled passages back to open water.

The wind was from the northwest but light, so we ran under motor power. However as we got further from shore the wind strengthened and we were able to raise the sails and shut off the motor, sailing downwind for the remainder of the day.

I set up the salmon rod with a green Mylar fly which represents a baitfish and ran the gear thirty feet behind the boat. As we rounded the south end of Nootka Island the reel began to scream — I grabbed the rod but quickly lost the salmon. Three more opportunities followed, of which I was able to get one salmon to the boat and swing it into the cockpit, where Julie pounced on it. My conclusion was that salmon fishing from a sailboat with barbless hooks is difficult but you don’t need a net if Julie is around.

We arrived at Friendly Cove in mid-afternoon and visited the lighthouse and walked around the park. It is a beautiful spot which was visited by Captain Cook and Captain Vancouver in the late 1700s. Then when we returned to the boat Gio barbecued the coho salmon for supper, a great ending to an excellent day.

Bill

June 22, 2024: Hot Springs, Orcas, and Fresh Salmon for Dinner

Saturday the 22nd, starting off in Friendly Cove but before pulling up the anchor Bill and I went ashore to see Sanford Williams carving studio. He does boxes, masks and 12 foot totem poles (he has 3 more on order to do). Working in red cedar with his home made tools, it was a treat to spend time talking with him.

Off down the Hesquiat Peninsula and Bill gets another Coho which was delicious barbecued tonight. We were closed hauled down the Peninsula with winds up to 18 knots and large seas. Predict Wind gave us 7 to 9 knots so the cape of the Peninsula must have put a local twist on things. We expected a beam reach after our Waypoint tack to Hot Springs Cove but the wind and seas died so it was time to turn on the engine. Shortly after getting the engine on we spotted a Dall’s Porpoise which is often mistaken for an Orca. It’s nice to have marine biologists aboard (Julie & Gio).

On our arrival at Hot Springs Cove, we saw 3 wolfs on the far side of the inlet and an Orca surfaced close by. Bill and I enjoyed the hot springs and returned to the boat where Gio had barbecued the salmon to perfection once again which was added to Julie’s pasta par excellence. Julie’s magic in the galley coupled with Gio’s finesse on the barbecue is spoiling Bill and I. So tonight makes 3 nights in a row with fresh fish. It’s nice to have a professional salmon fishing guide (retired) on board (Bill).

Off to Ucluelet tomorrow, time for showers and laundry, some would say just in time.
Geoff

June 23, 2024: Ucluelet or Bust

Pushing off from the Hot Springs Cove dock at 0630 into the fog was surreal. A mere twelve hours ago we arrived we were welcomed by a pod of orca whales and wolves running long the beach. Sea wolves and land wolves in the same place, at the same time. Now we are departing in stillness and fog. We have a long run down to Ucluelet today, with showers, laundry, and our first meal ashore in over a week to look forward to.

Small rain squalls peppered us with icy sprinklings all day, punctuated by brief and fleeting appearances of the sun through the clouds and fog. Geoff was our hero all morning, braving the helm position for hours and actually volunteered to stay there through lunch! Of course we all insisted he share his frigid post at the wheel and go warm up before taking another watch.

In the afternoon Gio held court around Sea Fox’s mighty Yanmar 4JH57, infusing Geoff and Bill with as much diesel engine knowledge as possible before we arrived at the Carolina Channel. Bill deftly navigated us into Ucluelet waters and up to the fuel dock where we reviewed proper fueling procedures, including the use of fuel additive and recordkeeping, before heading to our port-tie parallel parking spot at the small craft harbour.

Once again, Geoff remained cool as a cucumber as he guided Sea Fox into her overnight spot with the fine assistance of Bill on mooring lines. As soon as we were securely moored, shower and laundry rituals commenced, and what a glorious treat they were!

Ucluelet is a favorite stop of ours because of its exceptional protection from big blows and how walkable it is. Nearly the entire town is within just a few blocks of the marina, and chock full of funky marine culture. Definitely makes it a worthwhile stop, even if it requires dodging fishing gear floats for hours to make the approach!

The whole crew enjoyed an incredible dinner at Floathouse just steps from the dock, and are now relaxing in preparation for two days of passagemaking.

Julie

June 24, 2024: In the Home Stretch

As we motor sail south, away from Ucluelet Harbor, the sun is shining. There are ample puffy white clouds to our east mottling the mountain peaks to our port side with shadows. We’re dancing across a gentle swell with a knot and a half of current pushing Sea Fox towards tonight’s anchorage at Port Renfrew. And it’s warm enough to wear a tee shirt! It’s a gorgeous day underway. Our boat speed is approximately 5.8 knots and a following current is pushing our SOG to between 7 & 8 knots!

Since Port Hardy our motley crew of 4 has sailed 317 nautical miles. It has gotten significantly warmer since our first night anchored in Bull Harbor and Geoff and Bill have quickly gotten proficient at all aspects of running and sailing Sea Fox.

We started our morning with oatmeal, muesli and docking and close quarter maneuvering practice! Taking advantage of our “prop walk” both Bill and Geoff expertly put Sea Fox in a side tie slip on both port and starboard. Then we headed out to the bay outside of Ucluelet Small Boat Harbor and hoisted sails so that we could practice crew overboard rescue procedures. The guys came up with the brilliant solution of tying two of our fenders together to use as the victim in the water.

We’re in the homestretch! Tonight we’re planning our first overnight passage together. We plan to weigh anchor at 0100 for a 12 hour sail down the Straits of Juan de Fuca bound for Canoe Cove in Sidney. We’re inviting opportunities for adventure along the way. Bill is going to give us an intro to down riggers lesson as soon as we exit the straits and it’s the perfect time of year to stumble upon humpback whale feeding aggregations. And with any luck we’ll have enough wind to sail across the finish line into Canoe Cove.

Gio